Care Guides

How to Wash a Cashmere Sweater Without Shrinking or Ruining It

A textile engineer's step-by-step guide to washing cashmere by hand or machine: water temperature, detergent pH, drying, pilling and what to do if it shrinks.

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Cashmere is easier to wash than most people fear. It needs three things: cool water, a gentle detergent and no rubbing or heat. Get those right and a good cashmere sweater will come out of every wash softer than it went in.

I have worked in textile dyeing and fabric development for 14+ years. Animal fibers like cashmere are the most delicate thing a dyehouse handles, so I know exactly what damages them. This guide explains what to do and why it works.

What you need

  • A clean basin or sink
  • A wool or cashmere shampoo (pH-neutral, no enzymes). A mild hair shampoo works in a pinch.
  • Two large, clean towels
  • A flat drying rack or a clear, flat surface away from direct heat
  • A cashmere comb or fabric shaver for pills, if needed

How to hand wash a cashmere sweater

  1. Check the label. If it says dry clean only, the dye or construction may not tolerate water. If it allows hand washing, carry on.
  2. Turn it inside out. This protects the outer face from rubbing.
  3. Fill the basin with cool to lukewarm water, no warmer than about 30°C (86°F), and dissolve a small amount of wool shampoo. Never pour shampoo directly onto the sweater.
  4. Submerge and soak for 5 to 10 minutes. Gently press the sweater a few times. Do not rub, twist or scrub.
  5. Rinse in cool water of the same temperature. A sudden change from warm to cold shocks wool fibers and encourages felting. Rinse until the water runs clear.
  6. Press out the water. Squeeze gently against the side of the basin. Never wring.
  7. Roll it in a towel. Lay the sweater flat on a towel, roll them up together, and press to absorb water.
  8. Dry flat. Lay it on a dry towel or rack, reshape it to its original size, and let it dry away from radiators and sun.

Can you machine wash cashmere?

Only if the care label allows it, and only on a true wool or hand-wash cycle with cold water and a low spin. Put the sweater in a mesh laundry bag, use wool shampoo, and wash it alone or with other wool. Then dry it flat. Never use a regular cycle: the drum movement is exactly what causes felting.

Washing machines differ a lot in how gentle their wool cycle is. Our sister site explains why clothes shrink in washers and dryers and how to pick safer settings.

Mistakes that ruin cashmere

MistakeWhat happensDo this instead
Hot waterFibers felt and the sweater shrinks for goodCool water, no warmer than about 30°C
Bio or regular detergentFibers lose softness; enzymes weaken thempH-neutral wool shampoo
Wringing or twistingStretches and felts the knitPress, then roll in a towel
Tumble dryingShrinks and felts in minutesAlways dry flat
Hanging wetWater weight stretches shoulders and lengthDry flat, store folded
Washing dark cashmere with whitesDye can bleed or rub offWash dark colors alone

How often should you wash cashmere?

Less than you think. Wear a sweater two to five times between washes, and air it overnight on a flat surface. Wash sooner if it is stained or smells. Washing too often wears it out faster than wearing it.

How to remove pills

Pills are short fibers that worked loose and tangled together. They are most common in the first few weeks, especially under the arms. Lay the sweater flat and draw a cashmere comb or fabric shaver lightly over the pilled areas in one direction. If a sweater pills heavily and keeps pilling, the yarn is likely made of short fibers, a sign of lower-grade cashmere.

What to do if your cashmere shrinks

If it is only slightly tight, soak it for 20 minutes in lukewarm water with a little hair conditioner, press out the water, then gently stretch it back to shape and dry it flat, checking every hour. This relaxes the knit and can recover some size. If the sweater has felted (thick, fuzzy and stiff, with the stitches no longer visible), the change is permanent.

Storing cashmere

  • Store it clean. Moths are drawn to body oils and food traces.
  • Fold it; never hang it.
  • Use breathable cotton bags and cedar or lavender to deter moths.

Shopping for a new one? See our guide to the best crew neck cashmere sweaters, judged on ply, gauge and fiber length.

Frequently asked questions

What temperature should I wash cashmere at?

Cool to lukewarm, no warmer than about 30°C (86°F), and keep the rinse water the same temperature.


Can I use regular shampoo on cashmere?

A mild hair shampoo works in a pinch because it is made for protein fiber. Avoid regular laundry detergent and anything labeled bio or with enzymes.


Does cashmere get softer after washing?

Often, yes. A gentle wash removes spinning oils and lets the fibers bloom, so many cashmere sweaters feel softer after the first wash.


Is dry cleaning better for cashmere?

Not necessarily. Gentle hand washing is kinder to the fiber than repeated dry cleaning, unless the label specifically requires dry cleaning.